In Los Angeles, "American Fashion" Is Often Made in Sweatshops

But a worker-led bill could change everything.

It seems like everyone is talking about “American” fashion in the days and weeks following the 2021 Met Gala. But (*Miley Cyrus singing “Twinkle Song” on SNL voice*) what does it mean? For some people, it’s literally wearing a flag or red, white and blue. For others, it’s clothing created by designers from the United States – all of which are legitimate interpretations. Still, there is another, often ignored part of American fashion that needs to be addressed: the clothing that’s made in our factories. There is an arrogant assumption that a “Made in the U.S.A.” tag indicates a garment was not produced in a sweatshop. That couldn’t be any further from the truth.

In California, that tag can mean the clothing you’re wearing was sewn by someone making a piece-rate, in which workers are paid per piece of clothing they work on instead of a standard hourly wage. This system has allowed brands to get away with paying garment workers well below the minimum wage so they can sell more clothing at cheaper and cheaper prices. In fact, some employed in factories that produce clothing for everyone from FashionNova to Forever21 report they make less than $3 an hour or around $200-$300 a week for full time work. According to The Guardian, 46,000 workers earn less than half of California's minimum wage in Los Angeles. Many of these workers pivoted to making PPE during the global pandemic, and risked their health. They became essential workers and we all relied on them, clapped, and made posts thanking them. Meanwhile, they worked in sweatshops, right here in the United States.

“There is some kind of a modern slavery going on in the sweatshops,” a worker named Francisco told CBS This Morning regarding his 30-year career in the L.A. garment district. He went on to show videos of cockroaches at his work stations and detailed how, on top of his low wages, there was little airflow in the small rooms he was working in.

While this reality is alarming, it can change. Thanks to a worker-led movement from the Garment Worker Center and their allies, the California State Assembly and State Senate passed a bill called SB62. This legislation not only makes the piece-rate illegal, it also ensures that brands share joint liability for the factories they contract. What usually happens is that a fashion company will contract out their manufacturing to a factory, removing themselves from any blame for unpaid wages or poor working conditions. As it's written in the legislative text, “The bill would impose compensatory damages of $200 per employee against a garment manufacturer or contractor, payable to the employee, for each pay period in which each employee is paid by the piece rate.” There would be a consequence for choosing profit over people.

SB62 is now on Governor Gavin Newsom’s desk, where he will hopefully sign it into law – he has until October 10th to do so. If he does, American fashion could be something that represents what a more equitable, sustainable fashion industry can look like. And frankly, it’s long overdue.

To support workers fighting for a living wage, visit the Garment Worker Center.

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