Paris Fashion Week Will Be Met With “Solemnity”
How the fashion industry is responding to Ukraine.
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode is calling for solemnity as Paris Fashion Week gets underway today. In a statement made via Vogue Business, Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération, said the shows will go on but in light of the Russian military attack on Ukraine, they are encouraging people to be reflective. “Creation is based on the principle of freedom, under any circumstances. And the role of fashion is to contribute to individual and collective emancipation in our societies,” the statement reads. “Given the present context, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode encourages you to experience the shows of the coming days with solemnity, and in reflection of these dark hours.”
The statement comes after some fashion editors and attendees posted reflections on the stark juxtaposition between a crisis in Ukraine and an opulent event like fashion month. In Milan on Sunday, Giorgio Armani opted to send models down the runway in silence. “The best thing to do is send a message that we don't want to celebrate because something very disturbing is happening around,” said Mr. Armani after the show.
Later, in an interview with the Evening Standard, Vogue Ukraine fashion director Vena Brykalin explained his position on the matter. “I don’t expect models walking out wearing Ukrainian national flags or burning a portrait of Vladimir Putin on the runway…,” he told the outlet. “The lamest thing you can do is to throw in Ukrainian dress into your collection just to show your support. But there are things you can do, you can stay in the realm of your aesthetic and your narrative and be respectful to your customers and the media, while still making a gesture.” He noted that the industry was being “tone-deaf” by using inclusivity and political awareness as a marketing technique and not making any gestures to support Ukraine.
Evening Standard also spoke to Ukranian model Kateryna Zub, who noted that many fashion industry people seemed to ignore what was happening and instead, “they were still talking about Prada and Gucci.” She also said that she stood outside of the Dolce and Gabbana show with a Ukrainian flag to bring attention to the matter.
It doesn’t seem like anyone is asking for these events to be canceled, but rather urging for acknowledgement. The fashion industry can certainly use the stage it has right now to show support and bring awareness. The same brands that have used staged protests on the runways to sell a collection should be at least bringing awareness to a global crisis that is happening – even when it may not be in their best financial interest. It’s notable that sanctions on luxury goods – like the ones coming from brands showing during fashion week – have not been implemented, according to The Fashion Law.
Paris Fashion Week continues until March 4th, and it remains to be seen how the designers, attendees, and fans will address the current crisis if at all.