Often, my reflections on clothing feel dramatic. As many times as I say or write or internally scream that fashion is important because it represents livelihoods, culture, and expression, I still find myself chuckling at the full-body tingle I get from a pretty top. It is, frankly, a little absurd. But as the year comes to a close and I reflect on the year of fashion (at least that I’ve been witness to), my sometimes farcical way of viewing an outfit feels… valid?
In 2023, fashion saw incremental bits of progress that could have a real impact on the future. This is happening in no small part due to the dedicated work of labor advocates and garment workers around the world. This idea that the work of fashion is somehow secondary to the product was consistently dismantled by actions taken by the workforce–which is fighting not only for better working conditions but also for a more sustainable industry overall.
The FABRIC Act, a bill modeled after California’s SB62, which would make paying piece rates illegal on a national level, was reintroduced into Congress. The New York Fashion Act, a bill that, if passed, would require fashion brands doing business in New York State to comply with supply chain mapping requirements, was also given new life this year, with a new round of support from brands, celebrities, and consumers.
In Bangladesh, the second largest garment manufacturing hub in the world, thousands of garment workers began a protest movement against the country's minimum wage. Currently, the proposed increases do not adequately provide a living wage for workers. In a story I wrote for Teen Vogue, a garment worker told me that they don’t have enough to feed their children even with overtime.
On the retail side of fashion – collective action has been just as important. In November, Gucci design workers launched a strike to protest the brand’s attempt to move workers from Rome to Milan, which the union said would leave many with no choice but to leave their jobs. Protesters held signs that read: “Gucci cuts but doesn’t sew.”
The Fashion Workers Act, a bill that seeks to protect models from predatory management practices, was passed again by the New York State Senate Labor Committee. Even though it has not yet been voted on, it’s brought awareness to how lack of transparency can breed abusive practices that models (often in their teens and 20s) are facing.
Those are just a few of the global movements happening every day, and they are working.
H&M announced told factories it would take on the cost of raising wages with minimum monthly wage by 56% to 12,500 taka or $113. On Dec. 18th, U.S. officials signed a letter urging the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) to support workers' demands.
There has also been a significant amount of progress on the technology front, and so many brands have made it clear that equity and sustainability are the rule, not just a goal. I wrote about Unspun’s new waste-limiting circular loom that debuted during the Eckhaus Latta fashion show (which you can read here). Other brands like Reformation collaborated with brands like Veja to boost the already pretty remarkable footwear manufacturing happening in Brazil. You can read about the collaboration and my trip to see the facility here and here, respectively.
To be clear, I am still wary of fashion’s future. Our clothing consumption is not slowing down. Many brands are doing everything they can not to face accountability. And the sheer volume and complications of the issues are enough to make them fade into the background. Still, I hope 2024 will be another year of progressive movement – and, of course, great tops that elicit chills.
While I have significantly decreased the number of newsletters I send out in 2023, This Stuff is still very important to me. If you’re still here, I sincerely appreciate your support of not only my writing but of a better, more equitable fashion industry. I hope you have a wonderful holiday season and talk more in the new year.